ERASMUS TIMES: Zagreb

Salutations. Myself, Phoebe and Katie took a lovely little trip to Croatia this week. We set off early on Monday morn, to make the first leg of our journey to Munich and then we took a train to Zagreb from there. We got ourselves a grand comfy table seat on the train and the journey was very lovely, as we travelled through the Austrian Alps as well as Slovenia. But eight hours is a long time to be on a train. About six hours in I started getting edgy. And the thirty-minute passport checks on the border got me edgier. But it was arriving in a different train station to the one listed on my ticket that engaged full-on rage mode. We hadn't a clue what was going on. Fortunately a very friendly Croatian who had been on our train explained (in English)  that the main train station was undergoing work and was closed. For the week that we were there. Great fun that was.

After a tram and taxi journey, we finally got to our hostel. The Funk Lounge Hostel, to be specific. It's a lovely hostel in a quiet area of Zagreb, near the wonderfully named Maksimir Park. The stress of getting there was remedied by the super-friendly staff staff and the welcome they gave us. They let us get settled in our room, before explaining in detail the sights in the city and how to get to them,  in addition to making recommendations. I then took a welcome snooze on my perch (I took the bunk bed and bestowed upon it the more appropriate title of 'perch').

Said perch.

Our first port of call the following morning was the beautiful inner-city park of Maksimir. Our pale, Irish/ English, vitamin-D starved faces were grateful for the sunshine as we wandered around the park. After a prolonged period of tram-confusion, we went to the upper city. This trip called for a spin in the funicular lift. the funicular was a little blue tram-like vehicle, which took us up the steep hill to the upper town. After taking in the view of the city from that great height, we made our way to the Museum of Broken Relationships. The exhibition is made up of articles which symbolised the break up of a relationship, for those who submitted them. The exhibition was a combination of funny, sweet and affecting. I think the reason the exhibition was so interesting, was the fact people were sharing their own stories. Well worth a visit.

Apply some pressure...

 We wandered further, passing the colourful St. Mark's church, as well as Croatian government buildings. Following that we went to the weird-ass Zagreb City Museum. The exhibit, which in fairness is quite interesting, is housed in an old St. Clare's convent. We entered to find the place empty. No staff, no curator: nothing. We fumbled around the exhibition, before trying to make our escape. But the door we thought was the exit was locked. Cue more fumbling around the museum before we found ourselves back on the Zagreb streets... but not in a prostitutey way.

BRIGHT COLOURS.

After fannying about the main shopping street and getting some pizza, we made our way to Zagreb Cathedral. The cathedral is quite an impressive construction, partly surrounded by 15th century fortification walls. It has quite an interesting history, having being damaged by earthquake in 1880, restored, being neglected under socialism (Communists: not fans of organised religion), etc. In recent times works have been undertaken on the building, which explains the scaffolding.

Small... far away. 

We also visited Mirogoj cemetery on the outskirts of the city. The cemetery is an astoundingly grand and beautiful place, with arcades and arches and domes. It was designed in the 19th century by a German architect, Hermann Bollé and is a feat of civic architecture. Amazing. To resolve a few travel-related issues, we visited the main train station to get information from an amusingly grumpy woman. Also to be seen on the same square as the station is the gorgeous Art Pavilion and the Hotel Esplanade, which was once a famous stopover on the Orient Express. This square gave a glimpse into a period which must have been a golden age in Zagreb's history.

The following day marked the end of our trip to Croatia and we made our way back to Germany. Upon reaching Munich I was quite the Grumpy Gills. I was this close to a Kermit the Frog-style hysterical freak out. I think I frightened Katie and Phoebe. Once I got some caffeine in me I was grand again. Let me reiterate: eight hours is a long time to be on a train.

Sacher Torte. 

To conclude, Zagreb is a place I'd gladly visit again. Croatia is a pretty interesting place and I'd like to see more of the country, including their famous national parks. Everyone we encountered was friendly, welcoming and helpful. The trip has evoked a serious interest in learning more about the history of Croatia. Do consider it for a visit or indeed include it as a stop while inter-railing.

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